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Author Topic: Lifting a 1999 Interstate for tire removal  (Read 7637 times)
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NITRO
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« Reply #30 on: March 08, 2010, 07:37:51 PM »

The steel lift adapter has $12 worth of steel in it. You could either make your own or give a welder the specs and have one made pretty cheap.
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loudvalkyrie
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« Reply #31 on: March 10, 2010, 12:46:38 PM »

I built the wooden one from the directions on the link and it was exactly 1" too wide.I have cobra pipes so I wonder if thats why it wouldnt fit?.....I cut the 1" off and it was fine....just an FYI
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mello dude
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« Reply #32 on: April 28, 2010, 07:50:24 PM »

Here's an old post of mine:

Odin, remember the shops charge by flat rate most of the time. I've changed rear tires about 10 times and never even loosened the exhaust. I can have my back tire off in about 30 minutes including removing the saddlebags.
Here are some old posts about this:
Their shop manual says they have to pull the exhaust, but I am on my 7th rear tire and have never pulled mine. You can unhook the rear shocks and the wheel will raise enough to get the axle out over the exhaust. Some have also said you can loosen the exhaust and 'wedge' it out enough to change it, but I like my way. I can have the rear tire off in about 20 minutes including removing the saddlebags.
They may HAVE to do it by the book though.

I changed mine on the front without removing anything-it took about 15 minutes. I broke the beads with a large "C" clamp, used the same clamp to pinch the sidewalls together enough to see the inside of the valve stem. I held onto that (didn't want it inside the tire), pulled the old one off, put in the new one, released the clamp, and aired it up. Start replacing them with every tire change-do yourself a favor.

As to the rear wheel removal, I put it on a lift (Sam's), put a length of 2x4 under the rear wheel in line with the bike, remove the shock bolts (bottom ones but the top should be about the same)and lower the rear wheel (or raise the bike more) until the axle can be removed from UNDER (over also works and I do it that way now)the pipes. Some of the bolts have to be removed before you drop the rear tire, but it is easier to do than to explain. The rear wheel pulls out to the left (remove the 2x4 first) then drops and can be removed. I usually pull the drive unit by loosening the 3 or 4 bolts holding it to the shaft as it makes getting the wheel out a bit easier, but either way works. While I have the final drive unit off, I change the lube in it (easy when it is off), lube the splines, pull the shaft out of the housing and lube both ends of it. I usually put a thin film of grease on the rubber baby buggy bumpers in the wheel and on the shafts that go through those. Lots of folks have had to replace the rubber parts, mine look like new. BTW-I also grease (thin film) the rubber grommets on my shocks before reassembly. I hope this explanation makes some sense.
I also occasionally raise the rear wheel and pull the axle out OVER the pipes. I have never wedged them out. Just my 2 cents.:eek


As for the gas running out, like others said you should notice your bike starting to chug and sputter alittle at first, that is an indication that you need to switch over to reserve right away.  If you miss that timing cycle and your bike quits on you, then of course pull over switch to reserve, put your choke on and then restart your bike.  It should work unless by chance and this does happen you ran completely out of gas.  You can normally tell by opening your filler cap and moving your bike back and forth and listen for any fuel moving around in your tank.  If you don't hear anything chances are your completely out of gas.  This just happen to me as I forgot to put fuel in it after I was tuning up my bike so I ran it way down to make it easy to remove the tank.  Next day went for long ride still on normal fuel position and next night I went out for ride and she ran out and reserve of course would not work because she was empty.  Put a gallon in and off she went again.

I would for sure replace the valve stem as I have had my tires changed by dealer and they should replace but of course the big word is SHOULD, they didn't and while on a long ride out in the middle of nowhere it started going flat, filled it up no problem for awhile then right before getting on the highway home late on a Sunday night she cracked enough to go completely flat, thank god I was on the ramp and not on the highway yet......I would replace both of them, you never know what the previous owner actually did to the bike while they owned it, better safe than sorry I say.



Great information! I have ben dreading pulling my wheel off for a tire change. I have only done it once and pulled the pipes last time. Not fun!
















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Dragon2000
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« Reply #33 on: April 28, 2010, 08:57:33 PM »

Mello dude:

I just finished helping my neighbour put his back wheel on his Tourer after he changed the tire himself. We used my jack (metal one - link at previous post) to lift the bike up. He removed the bags and left the pipes on. Its not hard if you take your time. Having two people, one to lower the bike down with the other guiding/holding the wheel into the rear drive helps a lot.

Steve
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Steve

Remember - You Meet The Nicest People Riding a Honda!

 

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