Lifting a 1999 Interstate for tire removal

[honda*mann]

Hi,

Bought a Black Widow bike/ATV lift, and made a lift bracket at work. Everything is ok to go. Lifted bike up and did both front and rear tires since then.

Thanks
Honda*mann

[Alpha Dragon]

I have a lift, but my question is, does one have to take exhaust off to get the rear axle out when removing the wheel?

[NITRO]

I have a lift, but my question is, does one have to take exhaust off to get the rear axle out when removing the wheel?

No you don't have to. Search around here for the version that involves unbolting the rear shocks, which drops the swingarm. You should be able to find info on here or the VRCC board.

[Nogrey]

I have a lift, but my question is, does one have to take exhaust off to get the rear axle out when removing the wheel?

No you don't have to. Search around here for the version that involves unbolting the rear shocks, which drops the swingarm. You should be able to find info on here or the VRCC board.

I've had my rear wheel off more times than I can count now. I unbolt the exhaust hangers where they meet the frame near the rear wheel. Two hex nuts on each side. Look under the bike and you'll see what I mean. Then I use a 1" x 2" piece of "furring strip" (pine) to pull the exhaust far enough away that the bolts are out of the way. The rear wheel has plenty of room at that point. No need to remove exhaust pipes. I wouldn't recommend this except I know for a fact the dealrships don't remove them either. The OEM manual says to do it. I sure don't see the need.

[Alpha Dragon]

Tanks guys.  Don't need to do it now, but in the future, (when I go over to the Darkside).

[Valker]

Here's an old post of mine:

Odin, remember the shops charge by flat rate most of the time. I've changed rear tires about 10 times and never even loosened the exhaust. I can have my back tire off in about 30 minutes including removing the saddlebags.
Here are some old posts about this:
Their shop manual says they have to pull the exhaust, but I am on my 7th rear tire and have never pulled mine. You can unhook the rear shocks and the wheel will raise enough to get the axle out over the exhaust. Some have also said you can loosen the exhaust and 'wedge' it out enough to change it, but I like my way. I can have the rear tire off in about 20 minutes including removing the saddlebags.
They may HAVE to do it by the book though.

I changed mine on the front without removing anything-it took about 15 minutes. I broke the beads with a large "C" clamp, used the same clamp to pinch the sidewalls together enough to see the inside of the valve stem. I held onto that (didn't want it inside the tire), pulled the old one off, put in the new one, released the clamp, and aired it up. Start replacing them with every tire change-do yourself a favor.

As to the rear wheel removal, I put it on a lift (Sam's), put a length of 2x4 under the rear wheel in line with the bike, remove the shock bolts (bottom ones but the top should be about the same)and lower the rear wheel (or raise the bike more) until the axle can be removed from UNDER (over also works and I do it that way now)the pipes. Some of the bolts have to be removed before you drop the rear tire, but it is easier to do than to explain. The rear wheel pulls out to the left (remove the 2x4 first) then drops and can be removed. I usually pull the drive unit by loosening the 3 or 4 bolts holding it to the shaft as it makes getting the wheel out a bit easier, but either way works. While I have the final drive unit off, I change the lube in it (easy when it is off), lube the splines, pull the shaft out of the housing and lube both ends of it. I usually put a thin film of grease on the rubber baby buggy bumpers in the wheel and on the shafts that go through those. Lots of folks have had to replace the rubber parts, mine look like new. BTW-I also grease (thin film) the rubber grommets on my shocks before reassembly. I hope this explanation makes some sense.
I also occasionally raise the rear wheel and pull the axle out OVER the pipes. I have never wedged them out. Just my 2 cents.:eek


As for the gas running out, like others said you should notice your bike starting to chug and sputter alittle at first, that is an indication that you need to switch over to reserve right away.  If you miss that timing cycle and your bike quits on you, then of course pull over switch to reserve, put your choke on and then restart your bike.  It should work unless by chance and this does happen you ran completely out of gas.  You can normally tell by opening your filler cap and moving your bike back and forth and listen for any fuel moving around in your tank.  If you don't hear anything chances are your completely out of gas.  This just happen to me as I forgot to put fuel in it after I was tuning up my bike so I ran it way down to make it easy to remove the tank.  Next day went for long ride still on normal fuel position and next night I went out for ride and she ran out and reserve of course would not work because she was empty.  Put a gallon in and off she went again.

I would for sure replace the valve stem as I have had my tires changed by dealer and they should replace but of course the big word is SHOULD, they didn't and while on a long ride out in the middle of nowhere it started going flat, filled it up no problem for awhile then right before getting on the highway home late on a Sunday night she cracked enough to go completely flat, thank god I was on the ramp and not on the highway yet......I would replace both of them, you never know what the previous owner actually did to the bike while they owned it, better safe than sorry I say.

[Nogrey]

Looks like there might be more than one way to skin that there kitty! 

[loudvalkyrie]

NOGREY do you have any adaptor or wood on top of your jack to lift your Valk??.....I have the jack but unsure whats best..adapter or 2-2x4' pieces of wood

[Valker]

Adapters make it way more stable and easier to lift, but I have done it many times with a piece of 1X2 on the rear lift arm (before I bought the adapter).

[oldman]

LoudValkyrie:
There are several adapters out there to help lift your valk, they do cost a bit of money.  If you are handy with a welder, you could make one for yourself for not much money.

Home made out of wood:
http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Premade: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALKYRIE-HONDA-MOTORCYCLE-ORIG-RIVCO-JACK-ADAPTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27aee35d79QQitemZ170437860729QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
And : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALKYRIE-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-STURDIEST-STAYS-ON-BIKE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27aeb6038cQQitemZ170434888588QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I have the last one, but should have gotten the first premade.  Think is would be better.  Though the one I have has allowed me to lift my Valk to put on two new rear and one new front tires.  Replace the U-Joint.  So can't bad mouth it to much.

I do use a motorcycle jack that I got from a local parts store.

[Dragon2000]

Taking from the previous post; I made the wooden one and used it quite a bit. I had no problems at first  however with all of the use & my shoddy workmanship I ended up throwing it out. I ended up buying the one in the 2nd link. I like this one as it even bolts to the stand itself. 

My bike is on it right now using the same motorcycle jack in the pic. It is very sturdy and yes I could sit on the bike easily while it is up (if I wanted to).

Steve

[loudvalkyrie]

I wonder are you lifting your bikes up without the adaptor on the jack??.......I was thinking about using pressure treated 2x4 wood to put under the motor on top of the jack..what do you think??....any ideas what I should do while I jack it up to replace the back tire??

[loudvalkyrie]

I have a shop manual and clearly in alot of pictures you can see the guy has used pieces of wood on top of the jack or maybe its a wooden adaptor he made??

[loudvalkyrie]

sorry I didnt see I already went on this post and asked.....LOL...Dang old age

[Dragon2000]

I made the wooden adapter that is posted on the VRCC site some time ago (link below).

Wanting to keep my bike jacked up over the winter to work on while awaiting parts, I broke down and ordered the metal adapter thru EBay. I believe it cost me in total about $70.00 Cdn. It wasn't that the wooden adapter wasn't strong enough, it just gave me that comfort feeling that the bike was secure.

My bike was on the jack/metal stand from Nov thru to last week. During that time I had both wheels off, changed the stem bearing, the U-Joint, shocks and had other work done.

Wooden Lift Adapter: http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Type of Jack I Have: http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-lift/

Steve